When you think of prAna, you probably think of an eco-friendly, comfortable, casual, yoga, and outdoorsy clothing company. We decided to investigate the creative design team behind the brand that articulates this philosophy and culture. We put it to Tess, PoopBags.com's resident design assistant and full-time fashion student, to devise a list of questions. The answers are intriguing and definitely provoke thought.
Ellen
Where did you study fashion?
I always loved drawing princesses and clothing, but pursued a liberal arts education rather than a fashion design degree. My first design classes were self taught through trial and error, reading books, people watching, sketching, teaching myself to knit, etc. My real training started when I landed a design job on 42nd street in the heart of NYC garment district.
How did you end up a part of Prana’s design team?
I was the Director of the Design team at an active apparel company (Athleta, now owned by GAP, Inc.) for almost 12 years. The CEO of prAna, Scott Kerslake, originally founded Athleta in 1998 so we had worked together there for a few years. After he left Athleta, he kept in touch and a year ago called to tell me had joined prAna and there were going to be a lot of exciting things happening with the direction of the brand. We chatted more and here I am! I currently head up the Design, Merchandising and Product Development departments.
Do you have a dog?
Yes, one living and two in heaven that are always with me in spirit.
How do you incorporate your personal design aesthetic into prAna or reconcile the two?
I'd say my personal aesthetic is about keeping it simple, but with a twist....I like subtle irony and contrast.....but am practical at the end of the day.......tee shirts and jeans are no brainers....scarves, belts, shoes and interesting over pieces make same old, same old, look new. I'm a 60's baby so grew up seeing my Mom wearing cat eye glasses, sleeveless mock necks with fitted skirts. Later she wore hip huggers, bell bottoms, maxi dresses, gauchos & boots. Of course, I wore the same. I personally like a bit of rebellion paired with the timelessness of classic....which I think really works for the bohemian vibe of prAna....
Claire McCardell was one of the first American designers after World War I to succeed at creating stylish and functional ready-to-wear within the constraints of mass production. How do you relate to her struggle and balance function and design at Prana?
I think making anything is always challenging no matter the quantity, so I don't think stylish, functional, volume produced clothing should be called out as an exception. For me, a really great design process involves knowing what is currently working and being open to hearing about what isn't....and looking at ways to skillfully innovate. You have to know who you are designing for and why you are designing an item. The purpose and intent of a design helps to keep you honest and on track and it helps when you are an end user as well. With that said, to execute your ideas, you must partner with your mills and manufacturers. It's a give and take especially if you need to work within cost ranges and timelines....and although designers don't like to compromise, finding acceptable solutions so that you can bring a "relevant" product to market "on time" is paramount. As much as I get attached to the conceptual look, feel, function and aesthetic of a item, I have to ask myself at the end of the day....."If the customer didn't see the original, would they still respond to the "commercialized" version?" I struggled with this quite a lot when I first started out and felt it was absolutely critical to never compromise on any part of the design vision. This idealistic mentality didn't get me very far and I soon realized that being open to workarounds and alternatives actually made me more creative! Being passionate and having high expectations is wonderful but staying open to new ideas (even when they are not your own) broadens your horizons.....Embracing challenges and loving what you do, just makes everything easy....
Eva
Where did you study fashion?
I studied at Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising.
How did you end up a part of Prana’s design team?
I have been working in the industry for many many years and had friends that worked here. I started as a freelancer as I had other projects going. Eventually I took a full-time position as the senior designer for women's active and performance apparel.
Do you have a dog? Not yet, I had a cat. I love animals though…and all the dogs that hang out here at work.
Do you dress up or design clothing for your dog?
I think I would if I had a dog. There are a few girls working here that make their dogs wear outfits or accessories.
How do you incorporate your personal design aesthetic into prAna or reconcile the two?
I love the direction prAna is going forward. It's a lot more contemporary and softer. The word "prana" means to breathe, so that is always in the back of my head as I'm designing ("fluid movement").
Claire McCardell was one of the first American designers after World War I to succeed at creating stylish and functional ready-to-wear within the constraints of mass production. How do you relate to her struggle and balance function and design at Prana?
As far as the "struggle" I think it's becoming increasingly more difficult to produce "mass market" product with a differentiating point. How do we look different than others for the same price? That is the question every seasoned designer asks themselves. Design is not "blind fantasy"… It's more about providing a product that services the demand that fits the company image… at the right price and quality. There are many variables and obstacles a designer must take into consideration when designing a SKU. It's almost like a puzzle… and a good designer enjoys all facets of design (technical, specs, cost, construction … as much as the creative and innovative). Knowing and enjoying all aspects makes a better designer and hence, better product. Understanding the "boring" technical side actually helps a designer become better and more efficient. Many young designers do not understand this and need time to learn as they progress in their careers. As they get seasoned they blossom into better designers that have more added value to a company. The only thing I tell myself is that the playing field (market, demand, economy) changes, but the formula stays the same. As long as you (the designer) can stay fluid with the market changes and keep the formula as your constant, you will do well. Another thing about design is that there is never a "reward". I'm going to use a marathon as an example. I'm a runner… and when I train for a marathon there is a goal or an end result I train for. With design there is never an end…seasons overlap… you usually don't see the end product because you moved onto other product. A designer has to enjoy the process over the end result. If a designer does, they will have a charmed career.
